Day 4 – Ennerdale Water to Wast Water

6.5 miles

Phil Collins wakes me by drumming on my tent. Tentatively, I unzip and peer out. It's raining – HARD!

A mad dash to the 'toilet' and time for breakfast. Decisions, decisions. I go for the porridge.


Visibility is zero. Only a few hundred metres up but still in low cloud. Having the advantage of long evenings, a few hours are spent scribbling in my journal and photographing my bites.

1.30pm. I'm finally away. Steep and boggy over Tewit How. Scoat Fell and Haycock loom over me as I venture up to Little Lad Crag.

The crag affords me my first glimpse of Wast Water. Doesn't seem that far. I follow Nether Beck down for what seems hours. My knees protest while the black clouds and rain befriend me once more.

Egg and chips

My goal was Burnmoor Tarn but it's too late. On the road now that leads to Wasdale Head. At a drive I stop to make a plan and a farmer pulls up. £25 for B&B. In a flash I'm on the back of his quad bike speeding to the farmhouse.

The lovely landlady makes me egg and chips for dinner. I've got a double room en-suite, what a result. I sip hot chocolate whilst writing. No Deet tonight!

View over Ennerdale Water.

Wast Water from Nether Beck.