Day 3 – Crummock Water to Ennerdale Water

12.5 miles (via Loweswater)

Alfresco porridge this time with added sugar. I see a seal! No, it's a bloke swimming the lake. Fit bugger.

Decided to wash my hair in the brook and my brain numbed instantly. How can water be that cold in August!

A picturesque shore path leads me to Green Wood, passing cottages and eventually onto a road. It's another grey start and the church at Loweswater is even greyer.


Hanging left just pass the village brings me to the shore of the lake. I felt a bit sorry for Loweswater. Not as pretty or as grand as its neighbours but peaceful nonetheless.

Movement catches my eye. A dragonfly is devouring a bee. I take a photo and video. Another first for me. I'm startled by a thunderous roar and a RAF Hercules skims overhead.

Lunch at the Kirkstile Inn, Loweswater then exit the village following Mosedale Beck sandwiched between Loweswater Fell and Melbreak.


The path is now a wide bridleway surrounded by Cumbrian farmland, drystone walls and fells. Fantastic!

Gaining height the trail disappears under long grass. A stoat makes a dash for it, while a small lizard scarpers as well. I suddenly feel very alone.

Coming over Floutern Cop I see my goal, Ennerdale Water. The sun welcomes me and my camera bursts into life.

Rocks and boulders

Picking my way through farmland, I turn left along the east shore, heading south-east through Bowness Plantation.

Darkness looms as I cross Char Dub then climb steeply to Ling Mell Plantations. Squeezing my tent between rocks and boulders, I savour the sunset while midges gorge on my blood. Bloody things – literally!

The dragonfly munching on a bee.

Glimpse of a stoat.